Nestled within the eastern Himalayas, Bhutan's Kingdom offers travelers serene landscapes, a rich cultural heritage, and spiritual retreats. Among these, the Paro Taktsang, also known as the Tiger's Nest Monastery, stands out as an iconic site. Balanced precariously on a cliff, it symbolizes Bhutanese spirituality and remains a testament to enduring architecture. In Bhutan's diverse cultural tapestry, the Tiger's Nest Monastery holds a prominent place, brimming with tales, spiritual significance, and national pride.
Paro Taktsang transcends mere physicality; it encapsulates an emotion, symbolizing Bhutan's enduring spirit amidst modern influences while staying deeply connected to its traditions. It serves as a poignant reminder of Bhutan's profound spiritual heritage, guiding seekers towards inner harmony and enlightenment. More than a mere heritage site, it represents a profound journey, a pilgrimage to the essence of existence itself.
Located around 10 kilometers north of Paro, the monastery clings to a cliff at an altitude of 3,120 meters (10,240 feet), towering approximately 900 meters (3,000 feet) above the Paro valley, along the right side of the Paro Chu river. The steep rock slopes and intricate monastery structures seamlessly blend into the cliff face. Despite its intimidating setting, the monastery offers multiple access routes, including a northwest path through the forest, a southern route favored by pilgrims, and a northern passage over the rocky plateau known as the "Hundred Thousand Fairies," also called Bumdra.
The trek to Tiger's Nest monastery typically takes around 3 hours at a comfortable pace or 2 hours for more experienced trekkers. The total distance is approximately 4 km one way, with a 700m elevation gain. For those unable to climb, horse rentals are available up to the cafeteria, the midpoint of the hike. From there, it's another 45 minutes to 1 hour to reach the monastery. Along the trail, colorful prayer flags known as Lung Dhar adorn the path, symbolizing blessings for all sentient beings. The journey culminates with a final ascent of 120 steps to the main entrance of the monastery.
From the instant you enter Bhutan, its mystical aura envelops you. Enshrouded by the mist of its mountains, the country resonates with a vibrant energy echoing ancient tales, celestial presence, and the cadence of Buddhist prayers.
Paro Taktsang is one of the 13 caves in which Guru Rinpoche meditated in for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days and 3 hours in the 8th century. Tigers Nest is one of two major meditation spots of Guru Rimpoche in Bhutan, the other being Kurjey Lhakhang.
Legend has it that in 747 AD, Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, rode a tigress to a cave at Paro Taktsang in his fierce form of Guru Dorji Drolo, hence the cave's name 'Taktsang' or the 'Tiger’s Lair.' This manifestation was aimed at pacifying malevolent spirits and preserving Buddhist teachings. Some accounts suggest that Guru Padmasambhava's consort, Tashi Khidren, transformed into the tigress and flew from Sengye Dzong in Kurtoe (Bhutan) to the site. The cave, known as Taktsang Pelphug, is considered profoundly sacred within Paro Taktsang. It is believed that Guru Padmasambhava and his consort meditated there, subduing numerous demons and deities, binding them by oath to safeguard the dharma.
According to another legend surrounding Guru Padmasambhava's connection to Tiger's Nest, his consort Yeshe Tsogyal was given to him by King Trisong Detsen and played a vital role in uncovering and documenting termas, which are concealed teachings vital to Vajrayana Buddhism. In one well-known rendition of the Tiger's Nest legend, Yeshe Tsogyal is said to have morphed into a tigress and flown alongside Padmasambhava to the site of the "tiger’s lair" to subdue Singye Samdrup, the local demon.
In yet another legend, Guru Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) is said to have arrived at the temple site of Paro Taktsang in the 8th century by riding on the back of a tigress from Khenpajoing, Tibet.
Over time, the tale of the tigress flying to Paro Taktsang has evolved through oral tradition. Yet, with thorough research and examination of ancient transcripts, a comprehensive narrative concerning the flying tigress has emerged. This story, rooted in centuries-old accounts, provides detailed insights into the identity and journey of the tigress. READ FULL STORY ABOUT THE IDENTITY OF THE FLYING TIGRESS HERE.
Guru Rinpoche bestowed initiation of Amityus and Vajrakilya upon Khandro Yeshe Tshogyal and Tashi Kheudron, who then meditated at Taktshang Pelphug for four months. During their meditation, a black ritual dagger (known as kilya in Sanskrit) flew into the cave after subduing all eight classes of gods and demons in the border regions, including Nepal. This ritual dagger remains at Pelphug Lhakhang to this day. Khandro Yeshe Tshogyal and Tashi Khidren, having fully realized these practices, are believed to have demonstrated numerous miracles. Guru Rinpoche subsequently performed Tshogbum and Tashi Rabney rituals before returning to Yonphu Taktsang in Tibet.
The Treasury Key, a 19th-century commentary to the Guhyagarbha Tantra found in the King's Chronicle, states that "At Paro Taktsang Senphug, numerous authentic teachings for achieving genuine and full enlightenment are concealed." As Taktsang is revered as the sacred site embodying the Guru's enlightened consciousness, it is believed that the Guru himself declared that those who undertake a retreat there will attain the Siddhi (attainment) of Mahamudra.
Many Buddhist masters also spent time here in meditation, the foremost being Langchen Pelgye Singye, one of the twenty-five disciples of Guru Rinpoche. Later many renowned Buddhist saints and masters visited and blessed the site.
After Guru Rinpoche's departure, in 853 AD his spiritual disciple Langchen Pelgye Singye visited the cave and meditated there before returning to Nepal, where he passed away while meditating. He named the cave "Pelphug," which means "Pelkyi's Cave." Following his death, it is believed that his body was miraculously brought back to the monastery with the assistance of the deity Dorje Legpa and is now entombed beneath a stupa in a chamber to the left at the top of the entrance stairway. The stupa has undergone restoration in 1982-83 and again in 2004. Though initially empty, it is said that during auspicious days, the body moves up to the empty recess within the stupa. The site is considered highly sacred, with a belief that any wish made near it during auspicious days will be fulfilled.
In the 10th or 11th century, Jetsun Milarepa, a former murderer turned devout Buddhist, spent three years/months meditating in the cave. During the same era, in 1219, Gyalwa Lhanangpa, the founder of Lhapa Kagyu, and Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, the founder of Drukpa Kagyu, journeyed to the cave together. Phajo Drugom Zhigpo meditated there for six years, during which Guru Rinpoche appeared to him in a vision and proffered to him all the sacred sites he had established. Guru Rinpoche also prophesied that this sacred site should be promoted, indicating that it would eventually come under the care of someone else.
Centuries later, the Tibetan polymath Thangtong Gyalpo journeyed to Taktsang and uncovered a ten-yard long scroll hidden within the cave. According to belief, this scroll was presented to him by five dakinis.
The cave gained significant attention when Zhabdrung Rinpoche, the future unifier of Bhutan, became interested in it. Legend has it that in the late 1630s, during the fire dog year, Zhabdrung had a dream in which a man in black offered him Taktsang. The next morning, he instructed his attendants to admit a visitor promptly, anticipating the arrival of the one from his dream. Singye Samdrup, the guardian deity of Taktsang disguised as a poor man, approached the gate and expressed his desire to meet Zhabdrung. He then declared that he had come to hand over Taktsang to Zhabdrung. Recognizing the deity, Zhabdrung gave him a white scarf and instructed him to climb to the top of Taktsang cliff-face to announce that the region was now under Zhabdrung's sovereignty. When the deity fulfilled his promise, Zhabdrung vowed to build Guru Tsengye Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to the eight forms of Guru Rinpoche, in his honor. However, Zhabdrung passed away before fulfilling this vow, and it fell upon Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye, the 4th Druk Desi and Zhabdrung's spiritual successor, to realize his master's vision.
Between the 12th and 17th centuries, many Tibetan lamas arrived in Bhutan and established their monasteries. The first temple was believed to be built by Sonam Gyaltshen - a Nyingma Buddhist master - probably in 1508 at Taktsang Pelphug (The Ogyen Tsemo sanctuary). Though the original paintings he brought have faded, faint traces can still be seen on a rock above the main building.
It was at Taktsang, during the Tibetan war of 1644/46, that Zhabdrung and his Nyingmapa teacher, Terton Rigdzin Nyingpo, first performed a ritual invoking Padmasambhava and the protective deities. Many auspicious signs were displayed resulting the Zhabdrung to plan for the construction of a temple there, however, as already preoccupied with many responsibilities he instructed his spiritual son, Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye (1638-1696) to build a temple of the Eight Manifestations of the Guru there. Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye relayed the instruction to Penlop Drakpa Jamtsho, a governor of Paro to build the temple. The construction work began on the 10th month of the Water Monkey Year (1692) and the two-storied temple was completed in 1694. A likely reason for why it took another 5 decades for the monastery to be built is that Zhabdrung Rimpoche died in 1651, a fact kept secret to help maintain the unification of the Drukpa state.
Between 1961 and 1965, the monastery was renovated by the 34th Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot), Shedrup Yoezer. Additions were made in 1861-65 and 1982-83, and then in 1992.
Sitting at an elevation of 10,240 ft, Paro Taktsang is believed to be the third highest temple in the world. Some 3,000 feet above the valley in Paro, it is quite an impressive view; both from the temple and looking up at it.
Tenzin Rabgye, a distant relative descending from the lineage of the 15th-century figure Drukpa Kunley, visited the sacred cave of Taktsang Pel Phuk during the Tshechu festival of 1692 and initiated the construction of a temple dedicated to Guru Rinpoche, known as the ‘Temple of the Guru with Eight Names’ (Guru Tsengyed Lhakhang).
Before construction commenced, Tenzin Rabgye ascended to the mouth of the Taktsang Pelphug. The Druk Desi blessed the cave and performed a tshechu ceremony with a crowd of onlookers watching from below. Various miracles manifested themselves, including the appearance of a triple rainbow, a rain of flowers, and “countless other auspicious signs, never before seen or heard of, occurred at that time” (Ardussi, p. 46). According to some authors, there are claims that Tenzin Rabgye was a reincarnation of the 8th century Guru Padmasambhava. Proponents of this belief cite several corroborative instances: Tenzin Rabgye was allegedly witnessed simultaneously inside and outside his cave by his friends; a small amount of food was reportedly sufficient to feed all visitors; no injuries occurred during worship despite the dangerous and slippery approach track to the monastery; and residents of the Paro valley claimed to have seen various animal forms and religious symbols in the sky, including a shower of flowers that appeared and disappeared without touching the ground.
The Druk Desi enlisted Lopon Dragpa Gyatsho, his chief architect, to oversee the construction. But, according to legend, each time Lopon laid a few foundation courses during the daytime, demons dismantled the work when darkness fell. Only by cutting a lock of his hair and mixing it with the mortar was Lopon able to prevent the monsters from returning.
Another story involving hair, possibly conflated with the above tale, is a myth that several minor goddesses offered long tresses of their own hair to serve as building materials when mortar supplies grew low.
According to another legend, It was believed that when trying to lay the founding stones on the ledge of the cliff, it was said that they kept on slipping off due to the sheer slope of the cliff so Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye mixed hair cut from his head with the mud as mortar for the founding stones. Then the remaining work went on smoothly and the construction of the temple was completed in 1694, including installation of statues and other related objects.
Another Legend suggests that when the temple was built, it was anchored to the cliff by the hairs of female celestial beings known as khandroma.
The temples built by Tenzin Rabgye endured until the middle of the 20th century when an uncontrolled fire ignited in a nearby meadow, spreading rapidly for four days. This blaze consumed over half of the buildings at Taksang Palphug. However, the primary guardian statue, portraying Singye Samdrup, remained unharmed. By 1957, all the inflicted damage had been completely restored.
In April 1998, a severe fire broke out at Guru Tsengye Lhakhang situated not far from the caretaker’s residence, possibly caused by an overturned butter lamp, as reported by the New York Times. Later it was speculated to be from an electrical short-circuit. The exact cause remained unknown. Sadly, the sole caretaker present at the time did not survive. Despite brave attempts by locals to extinguish the flames, the fire raged for three days, resulting in the loss of invaluable relics including sacred scrolls and thangka paintings.
During the instances of both the fire hazards, the speaking bronze statue of Guru Sungjonma is the only item that miraculously survived unscathed.
According to architect Laura Blake's analysis in her book "Bhutan's Buddhist Architecture," the central area of Taktsang consists of seven or eight separate buildings organized in a shape resembling a comma, with the pointed end facing towards higher terrain. Positioned near the temple's base (representing the comma's head) is the Langchen Pelgye Tsengay Lhakhang, constructed directly against the rock face. Opposite to it stands the largest structure, a three-story building containing a meditation retreat area on the ground floor, the Guru Sungjoenmi Lhakhang on the middle level, and the Guru Tsengyed Lhakhang on the top floor.
The monastery encompasses four main temples and living quarters skillfully integrated with the natural rock formations, caves, and rough landscape. Of the eight caves on the premises, four are easily reachable. The cave where Padmasambhava initially arrived, riding a tiger, is referred to as 'Tholu Phuk,' while the original meditation cave is named 'Pel Phuk.'
The Guru Tshengyed Lhakhang, known as the "Shrine of the Guru with Eight Names," is an elegant building built in 1692 by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye around a cave. It is devoted to Padmasambhava's Eight Manifestations, serving as a tribute to the diverse forms of Guru Rinpoche. Within the temple, there are sculptures and artworks depicting the eight primary manifestations of Guru Rinpoche.
In the middle of the complex, past a curved flight of stairs hewn from the rock, is the Drolo Lhakhang. Named after the form Guru Rinpoche took during his meditation, this temple showcases exquisite wall murals and thangka paintings depicting various episodes from the life of the Guru. A prominent feature here is the large scroll painting of Dorje Drolo, the Guru's manifestation when he flew to Paro Taktsang on the back of a tigress. Higher still—and directly adjacent—is a hall housing butter lamps.
This is the most prominent temple and holds the cave (Taktsang Singye Samdrup Cave) where Guru Rinpoche meditated. The entrance to the temple is through a narrow passage, and the inner sanctum is adorned with butter lamps, which fill the space with a soft, ethereal glow. Inside there's a statue of Guru Rinpoche in his eight manifestations, reflecting his significance in introducing Buddhism to Bhutan. The cave is opened to public only once a year.
After coming out of Guru Drolo Lhakhang, climb up a staircase to the next floor. Just on the right side lies the entrance to Guru Sungjoenmi Lhakhang. It houses the “SELF SPEAKING GURU STATUE”.
The shrine also displays exquisite paintings portraying the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche and his twenty-five principal disciples on the rock surface. Additionally, it houses the throne used by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye.
The primary statue in the temple is a 12-foot tall bronze statue of Guru Rinpoche. Penlop Drakpa Jamtsho enlisted the expertise of Pentsa, a renowned craftsman from Nepal, to create the statue at Punakha Dzong. During its transportation to Taktsang Pelphug, at a point called Demig Gocha, the narrow and steep path prevented further progress. Facing this obstacle, the porters contemplated dividing the statue into smaller parts for easier transport. However, the statue purportedly communicated with them, advising against its disassembly, prophesying that someone would come to carry it. Subsequently, the local deity, Taktsang Singye Samdrup, manifested in human form and carried the statue on his back to Taktshang Pelphug temple. This miraculous event, coupled with a similar incident in 1951, led to the temple being named the "Temple of the Self-Speaking Statue of Guru."
Finally, at the apex of the site are two connected buildings called the Namsey and Tshepamed Lhakhang. The former building is a narrow two-level, tapered structure that sits dizzyingly at the extreme edge of the precipice. The Tshepamed Lhakhang stands more snuggly to its rear. The names of these two Lhakhangs are derived from the main statue they house respectively - Guru Namsey & Tshepamed.
Taktsang Zangdo Pelri is associated with Yeshe Tshogyal, Padmasambhava's consort, renowned as the "Fairy of Wisdom," who founded the Mon, a convent bearing the same name as Taktsang, along with two other convents.
Adjacent to the Taktsang Zangdo Pelri is Urgyan Tsemo, also known as the "Peak of Urgyan," featuring a small Mani Lhakhang. Above Urgyan is the sacred cave temple known as 'Pelphug Lhakhang,' the principal shrine of Taktsang.
According to the biographies of Khandro Yeshe Tshogyal and Terton Dorje Lingpa, as well as the Eulogy of Taktsang by the 9th Je Khenpo Shakya Rinchen (1710-1959), the distinct features of the self-arisen image of Guru Dorje Drolo are discernible on the rocky cliff. Positioned just above the two temples of Taktsang (Pelphug) and Taktsang Shama are the eyes, with the nose situated between them. The cypress trees above are said to symbolize the hairs of the image. The view of this image is noticeable at the rocky cliff face of Taktsang if you gaze from Satsham Chorten or Ramthangka.
When observed from Satsham Chorten or Ramthangkha, the depiction of Guru Dorje Drolo's fierce Tiger mount can be seen at the base of the Taktsang cliff. some visionary people have even noticed the vivid image of the Thuenpa Puenzhi, the four harmonious friends.
Palchen Dorje Zhonu’s (Vajra Kilaya) self-arisen body
The central part of the Paro Taktsang cliff is considered to be the spontaneously manifested representation of Palden Dorje Zhonu (Vajra Kilaya). This description is provided by Gyalwa Shakya Rinchen, the Ninth Je Khenpo, in his Eulogy of Paro Taktsang.
The self-manifested Mani or the Six Syllabled-Mantra, symbolizing the enlightened speech is situated on the rock face near the lower of the two cypress trees growing slightly above the lamp-offering shrine. This site is reached after descending from the diversion point leading to Machig Ladron's sacred area. Due to its proximity to the trail steps, pilgrims' footsteps have significantly eroded the letters over time, rendering them barely discernible today.
The self-arisen stupa is said to be the Enlightenment Stupa-like image, which is painted white today, seen on the rock face to the right of the four-guardian kings’ gate of Pelphug Temple. This can be traced to as one enters the temple through the security gate located nearby the Taktsang’s Drupchu (accomplishment-stream).
In the biography of Mahasiddha Jinpa Gyaltshen, authored by Namgyal Tenzin, it is described how Jinpa Gyaltshen perceived the mountain ranges behind Paro Taktsang as representing the Five Buddha Families. Upon reaching Nyangmed Gedkha, he remarked on the resemblance of the mountains to the Five Buddha Families, describing it as spontaneous and grandiose. The five spurs preceding Taktsang resemble offerings symbolizing the five desirable qualities. The mountain on the right resembles the gesture of offering white silk scarves, while the one on the left resembles heaps of turquoises within a silver ladle. Additionally, the clear blue river resembles the act of making a water offering.
Tiger's Nest monastery in Bhutan has attracted a plethora of prominent figures from around the globe, including members of royalty such as Prince Charles, Prince William, and Princess Mako. Additionally, celebrities like Jet Li, Tony Leung, and various Hollywood stars like Cameron Diaz and Leonardo DiCaprio have made visits. The monastery's allure extends to the entertainment industry as well, featuring in films such as "Little Buddha" and making appearances in recent movies like Guy Richie's "The Gentlemen." This diverse array of visitors reflects the universal appeal and cultural significance of Tiger's Nest, cementing its status as a global icon.
March to May
Visiting Paro Taktsang from March to May offers the opportunity to witness vibrant blooms of rhododendrons and wildflowers along the trekking path. The weather is generally mild with minimal rainfall, enhancing the hiking experience. This season brings green valleys and fresh air, with clear skies ideal for photography and enjoying expansive views of the Paro Valley.
September to October
Autumn visits to Tiger's Nest offer clear skies and optimal visibility due to reduced rain and mist. The landscape is adorned with golden and russet hues of fall foliage, providing a stunning backdrop for the hike and monastery. Additionally, the season offers comfortable temperatures before colder weather sets in, ensuring an enjoyable trekking experience.
The Paro Taktsang is typically open to the public most days. It generally opens in the early morning around 8:00 AM and closes in the late afternoon around 5:00 PM. However, visitors should note that there may be certain days or seasons when the monastery is closed to visitors.
There are special dates on the Bhutanese lunar calendar whereby only Bhutanese will be allowed to visit Taktsang. The six auspicious dates in the Bhutanese calendar are;
However, it's essential to verify specific dates as they can vary slightly each year.
Visiting the Taktsang Monastery, or Tiger's Nest, in Bhutan involves several costs, including a daily package rate covering Accommodation, meals, and transportation. Additionally, there's some entry fee to the Monastery for international visitors. Hiking expenses may include hiring horses or mules for part of the trek and fees for local guides. Its preferable to book your tour through local agent in Bhutan, since all the costs will be included in the single package.
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