Trashigang
Tshechu

The Dzong & Its History

Trashigang Dzong — The Sky Fortress of Eastern Bhutan

Trashigang Dzong stands on a thin promontory above the confluence of the Drangme Chhu and Gamri Chhu rivers, its walls rising from sheer cliffs on three sides. The only entrance is from the north, via a narrow road that was blasted through the cliffside. The positioning is so extreme that Tibetan armies who came to attack it reportedly turned back, saying it was “not a dzong on the ground — it is in the sky.” The name Trashigang means “Fortress of the Auspicious Hill,” and the dzong’s official title, Chogley Namgyal, translates as “Victory of Bhutanese over enemies in all directions.”

Built in 1659 by Chogyal Mingyur Tenpa — the Third Druk Desi, who had also built Jakar Dzong in Bumthang — on the orders of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, Trashigang Dzong was constructed to control Sharchog Khorlo Tisb Gyed: the eight regions of eastern Bhutan. It was expanded significantly between 1680 and 1694 by Gyaltse Tenzin Rabgye. For more than 250 years, the entire eastern region was governed from its courtyard. Today the dzong houses the Rabdey (monastic body) of Trashigang and serves as a regional administrative centre.

Inside the dzong, half a dozen lhakhangs offer extraordinary sacred art. The Guru Lhakhang is dedicated to Guru Rinpoche; the Tshechu Lhakhang houses statues of Guru Rinpoche and his eight manifestations; the Lam Lhakhang is dedicated to the Eight Great Indian Masters of Buddhism; and the Tshogshing Lhakhang depicts the lineages of the Drukpa, Karmapa, Nyingmapa, and Dzogchen traditions. The goenkhang features paintings of a yeti among its protective imagery. At the entry gate, a mani lhakhang contains a slate carving of Seng Doma — a local protector who is half-male, half-female. And tame mountain goats (jaru) wander freely around the exterior courtyards. The dzong underwent extensive renovations completed in 2019.

The Bakcham — Trashigang’s Most Sacred Dance

The defining feature of the Trashigang Tshechu is the Bakcham — a sacred mask dance performed for nearly three hours, making it one of the longest individual Cham performances at any festival in Bhutan. The Bakcham is specific to Trashigang and is considered the most sacred dance in the festival’s repertoire. Its extended duration and ritual complexity reflect the depth of the monastic tradition at this dzong, which has been active without interruption for over 360 years.

Two Thongdrels are displayed during the festival — the Guru Tshengyed (depicting the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche) and the Neten Chudrug (depicting the Sixteen Arhats surrounding Buddha Shakyamuni). Most Bhutanese festivals display only one. The double Thongdrel ceremony gives the final morning of the Trashigang Tshechu a unique sacred weight.

Eastern Bhutan Around Trashigang

• Radhi village — the “Rice Bowl of the East,” famous for its raw silk (bura) textiles. About 200 households, all involved in weaving on traditional backstrap looms. One of the most productive weaving villages in eastern Bhutan, and the best place to buy bura silk directly from the weavers.
• Gomphu Kora — 23km north toward Trashi Yangtse, the sacred meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche where the Gomphu Kora festival is held in March/April. Can be visited year-round as a pilgrimage site.
• Chorten Kora — further north in Trashi Yangtse, the great white stupa modelled on Boudhanath, site of the Dakpa and Drukpa Kora festivals in February/March.
• Drametse Lhakhang — 18km off the main road at Thungari, the largest monastery in eastern Bhutan, founded by a granddaughter of Terton Pema Lingpa. The Drametse Ngacham drum dance, inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list, originated here.
• Merak and Sakteng villages — a two-day trek from Phongmey into the remote high valleys where the Brokpa semi-nomads live. A restricted area requiring a special permit. The landscapes and the culture are extraordinary.
• Sherubtse College — Bhutan’s first and most prestigious university, at Kanglung, 22km from Trashigang on the road to Samdrup Jongkhar.