Jomolhari Mountain
Festival

The Ghost of the Mountains

The Snow Leopard — 96 Left in All of Bhutan

The snow leopard (Panthera uncia) is one of the most elusive large cats in the world — adapted to the high-altitude landscapes of Central and South Asia, with a coat of pale grey and gold that blends into the rock and snow so perfectly that the animal can be metres away without detection. In Bhutan, approximately 96 snow leopards are estimated to survive across the country’s protected areas. The Jomolhari region — the high valleys around the base camp, between 3,500 and 5,000 metres altitude — is one of the best documented habitats. Camera traps installed by Jigme Dorji National Park and the Snow Leopard Conservancy have repeatedly captured images of individual leopards in this landscape.

The tension the festival addresses is real. Snow leopards prey on blue sheep and occasionally on the yaks and horses that the highland families depend on for their livelihoods. A leopard that kills livestock causes direct economic damage to a family with few alternative income sources. The historical response to this conflict — retaliatory killing of the leopards — has contributed to the species’ decline across Asia. The Jomolhari Mountain Festival is part of a broader strategy to change that dynamic: by turning the snow leopard from an economic threat into a conservation asset — a reason for outsiders to trek to this remote landscape and spend money with local families — the festival makes the leopard’s presence valuable rather than threatening.

The Trek to the Festival

The Jomolhari Mountain Festival is reached only on foot. The standard approach follows the Jomolhari Trek from Paro: a four-to-five-day walk from the trailhead at Shana (2,900m), following the Paro Chhu river upstream through the villages of Soe, Takethang, and Dangochang to Jangothang base camp (4,080m) — with Mount Jomolhari (7,326m) and Jichu Drake (6,989m) filling the skyline ahead. The approach passes through Jigme Dorji National Park for its entire length.

The return journey options include retracing the route or continuing north via the Bhonte La pass (4,890m) to the village of Soe Yaksa (3,800m), crossing the Tshophu twin lakes — sacred alpine lakes at around 4,400m — before descending toward Thimphu. This extended route adds two-to-three days but passes through the most remote and dramatically beautiful section of the Jomolhari region.

What Happens at the Festival

The two-day programme is a mix of conservation education, cultural performance, and highland sport. On the first day, the community stalls open: handicrafts made from yak hair, felt, and wool; local delicacies cooked over open fires; information displays about snow leopard ecology and conservation from JDNP and Snow Leopard Conservancy staff. Then the yak and horse show — the most spectacular visual element — followed by yak riding, horse riding, Khuru (dart throwing), and shot-put competitions.

The conservation performances are the most specific cultural element of the festival: snow leopard-themed folk songs and dances performed by the people of Soe Yaksa and Soe Yutoed, composed around the relationship between the highland communities and the cat that shares their landscape. Children from the local school also perform. The second day includes a guided hike to the Tshophu twin lakes, through the habitat of the snow leopard, with JDNP naturalists identifying wildlife along the route.

Getting There

• Starting point — Shana village, accessible by vehicle from Paro (about 1 hour). The trek begins here.
• Day 1–2 — Shana (2,900m) to Thangthangkha (3,610m) to Jangothang (4,080m). Total approximately 5–6 hours walking per day.
• Altitude — Jangothang at 4,080m requires acclimatisation. Spend at least one day at intermediate altitude before the festival.
• Equipment — Full camping gear, warm sleeping bag, layers for sub-zero overnight temperatures. Found Bhutan provides all camping equipment and support for festival trek participants.
• Timing — The festival is held in October. Book well in advance; the combination of limited camping sites and the festival’s growing popularity means spaces fill months ahead.