Thimphu Drubchen
(Lhamo Dromchoe)

Palden Lhamo & the Festival's Origins

Who Is Palden Lhamo?

Palden Lhamo — known in Sanskrit as Shri Devi — is the only female figure among the eight Dharmapalas, the fierce protectors of Buddhism. Her iconography is among the most intense in the tradition: she rides a mule across a sea of blood, her cloak is made of the flayed skin of her own son, and she carries a sword, a skull cup, and a ritual dagger. In her secret form she is Vajrayogini, in her inner form Tara, and in her outer form Mahakali Devi — the wisdom mother said to give birth to all Buddhas, manifesting in whatever form the needs of a particular place and time require. She is wrathful in the absolute sense: a destroyer of evil, a protector of the Dharma, an implacable guardian against the enemies of the Buddhist state.

In Bhutanese religious-political theology, Palden Lhamo occupies a specific role: she is one of the main dharma protective deities from the Naropa lineages, widely practised in Bhutan for centuries, associated with the Drukpa Kagyu tradition and the central government at Tashichho Dzong. Her festival is not about celebration or auspiciousness in the ordinary sense. It is about protection — the annual renewal of her covenant with the Bhutanese state, invoked by the most senior monks using the most intense tantric methods available to the tradition.

How the Dance Was Introduced

The underlying two-part structure of Bhutan's Thimphu festival — Lhamo Dromchoe followed by Gongdue Tshechu — was established in 1687 by Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye, the fourth Desi Tripa, fulfilling Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal's wish that tshechu festivals be established across the kingdom's major dzongs. The specific sacred dance performed during Lhamo Dromchoe today, however, has its own separate origin story, introduced a generation later.

Gyalse Ganapati — also known as Gyalse Kunga Gyaltshen (1689–1713) — introduced the dance of Palden Lhamo and her retinue in the early 18th century. Kunga Gyaltshen was recognised as the reincarnation of Jampal Dorje (1631–1681), a son of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, and was born at Khaling Tshamdrog monastery in Trashigang. He passed away young, at just twenty-four, having contributed what many believe would have been far more to Bhutan's spiritual development had he lived longer.

The Retreat Itself

What Happens Behind the Dzong Walls

The Lhamo Dromchoe prayer begins in the evening of the 22nd day of the seventh Bhutanese month. At 3:00 a.m., His Majesty, senior officials, and devotees gather around a sand mandala constructed inside the Mahakali (Palden Lhamo) temple within Tashichho Dzong. Standing in the four cardinal directions, they place ritual objects around the mandala — the eight lucky signs, the seven precious jewels, and the eight auspicious substances. Once placed, the shrine is closed for the remainder of the two-week retreat, during which those inside cultivate intentions of peace, prosperity, happiness, and longevity for all citizens of Bhutan and the world at large.

The mandala's four quadrants each carry their own symbolism: the eastern section is white, for peace and purity; the south is yellow, representing increase; the west is red, symbolising the overcoming of obstacles; and the north is dark green, representing the powerful and forceful aspects that contribute to peace. The more sacred and precious the objects offered to Palden Lhamo, the more of her blessings and power are believed to manifest — with the King and government officials standing as representatives of all Bhutanese citizens, and by extension, of all sentient beings.

Over 300 monks are assembled inside the shrine for the retreat's duration. Each morning at 3 a.m., they gather before the mandala to perform prayers extended toward beings in all directions, and the Black Hat Dance — the same dance performed publicly during Thimphu Tshechu — is performed privately each morning inside the main chapel to honour Palden Lhamo and eliminate any residual evil forces. These particular morning events are not open to tourists, and while Bhutanese women cannot enter the shrine itself, they may view it from a window or door.

Two Halves of One Story

Combining Drubchen and Tshechu

The Thimphu Drubchen's public days conclude right as Thimphu Tshechu begins — the two are, in a real sense, one continuous festival system rather than two separate events, and a single Thimphu visit can take in both. The contrast between them is one of the most instructive available in Bhutan. The Drubchen shows the serious, protective, and ritually intense face of Bhutanese Buddhism — the tradition's relationship with power, danger, and the fierce deities. The Tshechu that follows shows its celebratory, merit-making, community-oriented face — the Cham dances as public devotion, the Thongdrel as collective blessing. Together they constitute a complete picture of Bhutanese religious life that neither alone can provide. Read the full day-by-day breakdown of what follows on our dedicated Thimphu Tshechu page, or view our Thimphu Tshechu tour package to book a trip timed to catch both.

Things to Do in Thimphu

• National Memorial Chorten — the large stupa in central Thimphu built in memory of the third King. A continuous stream of residents circumambulates it throughout the day. A 10-minute walk from Tashichho Dzong.
• Buddha Dordenma — the 54-metre gilded bronze Buddha on a hilltop south of the city, visible from much of the valley. About 30 minutes' drive from the dzong.
• Changangkha Lhakhang — one of Thimphu's oldest temples on a ridge above the city. Parents bring newborns here for blessings and names.
• Tango and Cheri monasteries — further up the northern valley, 45-minute hike from the road. Cheri (1619) was built by Zhabdrung himself; Tango was founded by Drukpa Kunley.
• Dochula Pass — 22km from Thimphu, the 108 Druk Wangyal Chortens and clear-day Himalayan panorama. The Druk Wangyel Tshechu is held here in December.